When I launched this blog I decided I would put together a reading list to educate myself on the history of fashion. While I’m only a couple of books in on my first era, it has been so inspiring I decided to do a collection of posts on the topic. Thus, the style series: The Past of Prep, a look into the rule breaking pioneers of “borrowed from the boys” dressing and the women that founded the enduring American tradition of classic preppy style.
The neat, conservative, and smart preppy style that we know today is the product of a massive style revolution championed by the first female collegians of the Seven Sisters schools. Between 1861-1889 the Seven Sister schools opened their doors to be for women what Harvard and Yale were for men. While the first generations of freshman female collegians at Barnard, Bryn Mawr, Mount Holyoke, Radcliffe, Smith, Vassar, and Wellesley were provided a handbook with instructions on what to bring and wear at college, the students that followed them were proving their intellectual aptitude for a first class education and athletic prowess, and took to their wardrobes to challenge the status quo of acceptable dressing on-campus to assert this new found independence and authority.
By the 1930’s Seven Sisters style had taken the nation by storm and with it a new ideal of the all-American girl. Ditching their hoop skirts and wardrobe handbooks for Bermuda shorts, blazers, and button up shirts, the new Seven Sisters uniform enhanced life on campus and created a sense of belonging and camaraderie among female collegians. Their style became a symbol of casual elegance, academic and athletic excellence, and the idyllic college life. This timeless collegiate look was so influential and desirable it soon went beyond campus becoming a full-fledged American brand and lifestyle.
With no female predecessors, Seven Sisters girls looked to their Ivy League counterparts for inspiration in creating their own unique sartorial legacy. With its casual, neatly tailored style combining academic excellence, exclusivity, and prestige, the Ivy style vocabulary was ripe for the picking. Seven Sisters girls began shopping their father’s closets for camel coats and frequenting Brooks Brothers shops for crisp button up shirts. Decades later the Seven Sisters’ Avant guarde borrowed from the boys look is a classic, chic, and timeless style that oozes ease and confidence.
In the spirit of Seven Sisterdom, I looked to (and borrowed from) my own Ivy Leaguer for this look. He recently got this Bonobos oxford shirt, and having been on the hunt for a great oxford shirt for months I was drooling with envy and decided to order one for myself. Bonobos has a selection of tailoring styles for their button ups ranging from traditional to ultra slim. If you order your regular size shirt in the slim fit it will be loose but not baggy, the perfect combination for an oxford. I snagged his college ball cap and paired the shirt with my navy corduroy mini, Stuart Weitzman loafers, and a chunky infinity scarf I knit myself. A good rule of thumb, don’t underestimate the power of neutrals. Rich neutrals, especially when paired and layered with other neutrals, have such a lush effect that really brings out natural beauty.
After learning about the roots of preppy style, I realized how much more appealing the past of preppy is than the modern day evolution. I’m not one for excessive layering of pearls, being dressed head to toe in Tory Burch, or owning every color of Hunter boots, but I’ve always been drawn to the athletic, simple, and tailored preppy aesthetic. This preppy lifestyle came into its own post World War II during a more wholesome and optimistic moment in American life and the simple, conservative preppy style spoke to those sentiments. Unfortunately, in our current world of e-commerce and fast fashion preppy style in excess can come off as gaudy and contrived.
On the bright side, preppy fashion needn’t be a stereotypical uniform because its classic and casual qualities leave much room for personal interpretation. The keys to capturing the casually elegant character of preppy style are authenticity, correct sizing, and moderation. With preppy style I find that a minimalist approach is best for curating the ideal clean, understated look.
A Minimalist’s Guidelines to Prep:
- When you can, wear clothes that are unique to you and have a story. Gear from your school (or your significant other’s,) a sweater passed down from a relative, a blazer from a vintage shop, or a handmade piece picked up on a trip.
- Signs of wear are signs of love. It’s okay to wear the same blazer or pair of pants four times in one week, and when the hem on your chinos starts to fray that means they’re getting even better.
- Less is more. Go bare bones with accessories, jewelry, and makeup.
- Fitted hardly ever translates to comfy. The premise of preppy style is that your outfit can take you from sporting to social events. Your top should be loose but tailored, and bottoms relaxed. Get dressed and walk around for a bit before looking in the mirror. This isn’t the most obvious of styling hacks, but doing this allows you to focus more on how the clothes feel rather than how it looks. Just check the mirror before you walk out the door 😉 )
- Unless you’re the ultra-feminine, pastel clad sort, limit vibrant colors to one and pair with rich neutrals.
Past of Prep Part Two: Weekend Polish